Mangia! On our third full day in Sorrento, we decided that after several amazing meals, it was time to try our hand in the kitchen. After another early start, we enjoyed a forty-five minute walk to “Villa Ida”, an estate owned by the descendants of a noble Sorrento family. The grounds were gorgeous, with some of the largest hydrangeas that I have ever seen, and at least a half-dozen half-lemon half-orange trees. Apparently, the grounds keepers had grafted lemon and orange trees together some years ago, and now a single tree produces both fruits! It was really cool to see. We had organized a small group cooking course called, appropriately enough, “Simple Delicious“. Upon our arrival, we were welcomed with fresh squeezed orange juice (from the oranges on the property), and lemon pound cake. So good! While neither Ann Taylor nor I are big coffee drinkers, the Neapolitan coffee was also tasty, and much appreciated in the morning. We shared the course with four other students, including two ladies from Vienna, and another newlywed couple from Miami Beach. With everyone assembled, we were ready to start cooking.
The class was given by Angela, the daughter of “Ida”, for whom the estate was named, and her daughter, Marida. Given that the chef only spoke a few words of English — certainly more than I know Italian — her daughter both translated and facilitated the lesson. From scratch, we prepared: fried zucchini flowers, baked mashed potato croquettes, eggplant parmigiano and tiramisu. Each recipe was quite simple, using little more than salt and pepper as spices, because the ingredients were so fresh. I have had zucchini flowers several times before, but never fried, and never quite so good. After cutting the flower from the stem, we dipped them in a homemade batter and fried them in olive oil. The mashed potato croquettes were a bit more work, but each student had an opportunity to participate in each step of the cooking process. Actually, the potatoes were already peeled, as they needed to soak in water for a half-hour, but we took care of everything after that. After pressing the potatoes through a potato ricer, we added milk, butter, fresh mozzarella cheese and a local ham, then baked the potatoes in croquettes between layers of bread crumbs.
Our main entree was eggplant parmigiano, and I was impressed at how much I enjoyed it, as I have never been a big fan of eggplant. As with the first two recipes, we stayed simple, with freshly peeled and sliced eggplant layered between tomato sauce (also fresh and homemade) and more fresh mozzarella. I’m proud to say that while Ann Taylor received compliments for her frying skills, I earned rave reviews for my ability to peel and slice an eggplant. Dessert was tiramisu, which I have grown to love since moving to New York. Very simple and light, and, most importantly, delicious! While the chef and her daughter prepared lunch, her husband, Carlo, took us into his private wine cellar to taste the family’s homemade wine. We enjoyed healthy pours of four different wines, including his personal brand, “Charlie’s Wine”, as he shared stories. When Carlo learned that we were from New York, he mentioned that their family name is Cuomo, and that they are distantly related to our governor. Small world. Apparently the family makes nearly 2,500 bottles of each of the four types of wine each September, celebrating the harvest with a big party for family and friends. After the cellar tour, we made our way to the backyard to eat the fruits of our own labors.
As one might expect, the food was outstanding, and we enjoyed every course. When the other new groom mentioned that he had hoped we would have cooked pasta, Angela went back to the kitchen a cooked up a large pot. No one leaves an Italian meal hungry! We shared food, wine and stories, and Ann Taylor and I could not have enjoyed a more perfect afternoon. While we did not leave with any official recipes, we will be looking forward to applying the tips and techniques that we learned when we return home. For example, from now on we will be chopping fresh basil with our hands, rather than a knife. After saying “ciao!” to our new friends and hosts, we meandered back to the hotel for a relaxing afternoon and a much-needed nap. Well, Ann Taylor napped — I find it more relaxing to check box scores. I expect that we will be enjoying a lighter dinner tonight, and calling it a day early before head to Pompeii tomorrow morning. We can’t wait to see what fun and adventures Italy has in store next!
Take care,
– Dan